On UK Teslas, the parts that most often need replacing aren't batteries or motors. They're the wear-and-tear parts: air suspension struts and compressors on the Model S and X, suspension arms and wheel bearings on all four models, tailgate struts, and lights on the Model 3 and Y.
Below, model by model: the symptoms, the likely part, and how to find the right replacement.
Tesla's long-awaited new Roadster is grabbing the headlines, with talk of SpaceX-derived thrusters and supercar-beating speed. But for the thousands of Teslas already on UK roads, the real-world questions are more down to earth: why is my Model S sitting lower on one corner? What's that clunk from the front of my Model 3? Why won't my Model Y tailgate open?
Electric cars have far fewer moving parts than petrol or diesel cars, but they are heavy, they deliver instant torque, and the Model S and X ride on air suspension. That puts extra load on suspension, bearings and bushes. This guide covers the parts that wear out first, and what to look for before you replace them.
1. Air Suspension Problems (Model S & Model X)
Model SModel X
Most Model S and Model X cars use air suspension. Instead of steel coil springs, each corner has an air spring (bag) and damper combined in one strut, fed by an electric compressor through a valve block. It gives a smooth ride and adjustable height, but rubber air bags age and crack, and the compressor works harder as leaks develop.
Common symptoms
- One corner sitting low, especially after the car has been parked overnight.
- A suspension warning on the screen, or the car refusing to change ride height.
- The compressor running often or for a long time, or a whirring noise from the front of the car.
- A bouncy or crashy ride over bumps, which can point to a worn damper inside the strut.
Which part is it likely to be?
| What you notice | Most likely part | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| One corner drops overnight | Leaking air strut (bag) on that corner | Spray soapy water on the bag and fittings and look for bubbles |
| Whole car slow to rise, compressor runs a lot | Worn compressor, or a leak forcing it to overwork | Rule out leaks first, then check compressor output |
| Height won't hold on one or more corners, no visible leak | Air suspension valve block | Diagnostic check of the valve block and lines |
| Bouncy, knocking ride but height is fine | Worn damper inside the strut | Bounce test and visual check for oil on the strut |
Air suspension parts for Model S and X
- Front air suspension struts, pairModel S & Model X
- Front left air strut · Front right air strutModel S & Model X
- Front air spring bag struts, pairModel S
- Front left or right air spring strutModel S
- Rear air suspension struts, left & rightModel S (5YJS)
- Rear air strut, left or right (6006352-00-C)Model S (5YJS)
- Air suspension spring strut (106736100C)Model S (5YJS)
- Rear air suspension struts, pairModel X
- Rear left or right air spring strutModel X
- Air suspension valve block (4H0951253A)Listed for Model S 2012–2016, plus Audi, Porsche, Volvo, VW
⚠️ Before you lift the car: Teslas with air suspension have a Jack mode in the suspension settings. Turn it on before raising the car, so the system doesn't try to self-level while you work. Air struts are under pressure, so follow the correct procedure or let a garage do it.
Replacing struts in pairs on the same axle keeps ride height and damping even from side to side. Browse all air suspension components.
2. Clunks and Knocks: Control Arms & Wishbones
Model SModel XModel 3Model Y
The control arms (also called wishbones or track control arms) hold each wheel in position. They're joined to the car by rubber bushes and ball joints. On heavy EVs these wear faster, and a worn bush or joint is one of the most common causes of noise on any Tesla.
Common symptoms
- Clunking or knocking from the front over speed bumps or potholes.
- Creaking at low speed, when turning or in car parks.
- Vague or wandering steering, or the car pulling to one side.
- Uneven tyre wear on the inner or outer edge.
Model S and Model X
- Front lower track control arms, pair (1048951)Model S & Model X
- Front lower track control arms, pairModel S & Model X 2012–2020
- Front lower track control arm, single (1048951)Model S & Model X
- Front lower track control arm (1027351)Model S & Model X
- Front left lower arm (1041570) · Front right (1041571)Model S & Model X
- Front upper wishbones, pair (1043965)Model S
- Front left upper wishbone · Front right (1043966)Model S
- Front trailing armModel S
- Front upper wishbones, pairModel X
- Front upper left wishbone · Front upper right (102732700D)Model X
- Front control arms, drop links & bolts kitModel X
- Rear upper control arms, left & rightModel S & Model X
- Rear upper wishbone, left or rightModel S & Model X
- Rear integral link arms, pair (6006895-00-A)Model S & Model X
- Rear integral link arm, singleModel S & Model X
- Anti-roll bar drop linkModel X
- Front & rear lower arm bolts kit · Front lower arm bolts, pairModel S & Model X
Model 3 and Model Y
- Front upper wishbones, pairModel 3 & Model Y
- Front upper left arm · Front upper right armModel 3
- Front lower wishbones, pairModel 3 & Model Y
- Front lower left arm · Front lower right armModel 3 & Model Y
- Front lower track control armsModel 3 (5YJ3)
- Rear lower control armModel 3
🔧 Worth knowing: on all four models, have the wheel alignment checked after replacing any control arm. It protects your tyres, and Tesla tyres aren't cheap. Browse all control arms & suspension rods.
3. Humming and Droning: Wheel Bearings
Model SModel XModel 3Model Y
Because EVs are so quiet, a worn wheel bearing is easier to hear than on a petrol car. It usually starts as a hum or drone that rises with speed and can sound like tyre noise.
- A hum or growl that gets louder with speed.
- The noise changes when you steer gently left or right on a motorway. It often gets louder when the load shifts onto the worn bearing.
- Play in the wheel when it's rocked top to bottom with the car lifted.
- Front or rear hub wheel bearing kitModel 3 & Model Y
- Wheel bearing hub (104412200E)Model 3 & Model Y
- Front wheel bearings, pair (104412300E)Model 3 & Model Y
- Front wheel bearing hub kits, x2Model 3 & Model Y
- Front wheel bearing kits, x2 (1027121-00-A)Model S 2012–2016
- Front wheel bearing assembly (102712100A)Model S (5YJS)
Note the part numbers: Model 3 and Y use different front and rear bearing references, so compare the number on your old hub before ordering. See all wheel hubs, bearings & seals.
4. Tailgate and Boot Strut Problems
Model SModel 3Model Y
The Model S and Model Y use powered tailgates, so each strut combines a gas spring with an electric motor. When one wears, the tailgate may open slowly, stop part-way, sag or refuse to open at all, and cold weather often makes it worse.
- Power liftgate struts, pairModel S
- Power liftgate strut, left or rightModel S
- Electric tailgate strut (1500601-00-A)Model Y
On the Model 3, which has a manual boot lid, a boot that won't latch or release is more often the tailgate lock than the struts. Replacing powered struts in pairs keeps the lift even on both sides. For a deeper look at powered strut faults, see our tailgate strut problems guide, or browse all boot & tailgate struts.
5. Air Conditioning Compressor
Model SModel XModel 3
In a Tesla the air con compressor does more than cool the cabin. It's part of the thermal system that also helps manage battery temperature. Signs of trouble include warm air from the vents, a climate or cooling warning, or noise from the front of the car when the A/C runs.
- A/C compressor (106336900D)Model S & Model X, 2013 on
- A/C compressor (108819800P / 108819800L)Listed for Model 3, Model S & Model X
⚡ Safety first: Tesla A/C compressors are high-voltage electric units. Fitting one involves the high-voltage system and refrigerant, so it must be done by a technician trained to work on EVs, not as a DIY job.
6. Headlights, Tail Lights & Trim (Model 3 & Model Y)
Model 3Model Y
Model 3 and Model Y lights are sealed LED units, so you can't swap a bulb. If a section stops working, moisture gets inside, or the lens is cracked in a minor bump, the whole unit is replaced. Condensation in the light or an LED strip partly failing are the usual signs, and either can cause an MOT failure.
- Front left headlight · Front right headlightModel 3 & Model Y
- Outer tail light, left · RightModel 3 & Model Y
- Inner tail light, left · RightModel 3 & Model Y
- Outer tail/brake light, leftModel 3
- Outer tail/brake light, rightModel 3 & Model Y, 2017 on
- Fog lamp & DRL, left · RightModel 3 & Model Y
- Front bumper trim, left · RightModel 3
Remember: in the UK, "left" is the passenger side and "right" is the driver's side. Check the side carefully before ordering.
7. TPMS and Parking Sensors
A tyre pressure warning that won't clear, even with correct pressures, often means a TPMS sensor battery is flat or a valve is damaged. A parking sensor fault usually shows as a constant beep or no warning on one area of the bumper.
- TPMS tyre pressure sensors, x4Listed for Tesla and other makes; check your model on the page
- TPMS valve repair kit, x4Listed for Model S and other makes
- Parking sensor (112750211D)Tesla
Quick Parts Finder by Model
| Model | Parts that most often need attention | Start here |
|---|---|---|
| Model S | Air struts, compressor, front lower & upper arms, front wheel bearings, power liftgate struts, A/C compressor | Air suspension · Arms |
| Model X | Air struts, front upper & lower arms, drop links, rear link arms, A/C compressor | Air suspension · Arms |
| Model 3 | Front upper & lower wishbones, wheel bearings, LED lights, bumper trim, tailgate lock | Arms · Lights |
| Model Y | Front wishbones, wheel bearings, LED lights, electric tailgate strut | Arms · Tailgate |
How to make sure the part fits
- Check your model and year. Use our reg plate search or the Make, Model & Year checker. Model S and X changed parts over the years, and some arms and struts differ between early and later cars.
- Compare the part number on your old part with the OE numbers on the product page.
- Use your VIN. Tesla VINs start with 5YJ followed by a letter for the model (S, X, 3 or Y), as you'll see in the product titles. Our VIN lookup guide explains how to find it.
Not Sure Which Tesla Part You Need? Talk to a Real Expert
A clunk, a hum or a sagging corner can have more than one cause, and Tesla parts aren't cheap to get wrong. Call our team with your registration or VIN and tell us what the car is doing. We'll help you find the right part before you order: a real person, not a chatbot.
Mon–Fri 8am–5pm · Sat 8am–12pm (UK time)
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my Tesla Model S sitting low on one corner?
The most common cause is a leaking air suspension strut on that corner. If the car drops overnight, check the air bag and its fittings for leaks. If there's no leak, the valve block or compressor may be at fault.
What causes a clunk from the front of a Tesla Model 3 or Model Y?
Worn front control arms (wishbones), their bushes or ball joints are a frequent cause, especially over speed bumps. Have the front suspension inspected to find which arm is worn before ordering.
How do I know if my Tesla has a bad wheel bearing?
Listen for a hum or growl that rises with speed and changes when you steer gently left or right. With the car lifted, a worn bearing may also show play when the wheel is rocked.
Can I replace Tesla suspension parts myself?
Control arms and bearings can be fitted by a competent DIYer with the right tools. On air suspension cars, turn on Jack mode before lifting and follow the correct procedure for pressurised struts. High-voltage parts such as the A/C compressor should only be fitted by an EV-trained technician.
Do Model 3 and Model Y share the same parts?
Many parts are shared, including several front wishbones, wheel bearings and lights, but not all. Always check the fitment list and part number on each product page.
Should I replace air struts in pairs?
It's good practice to replace struts in pairs on the same axle, so ride height and damping stay even from side to side.
